As may be expected coming from a former child star, justin bieber clothes has already established many a fashion transformation throughout the years. He’s done quiffed hair as well as a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented using a floppy fringe and a suit. But while some of his attempts to toughen up have already been met with derision, the most up-to-date part of the Biebvolution is really bang in the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. We have seen oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts using the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, there has been plenty of layering – and a lot of raw edges.
Not every person gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) however the latest incarnation of Bieber ties right into a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and might be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
Simply speaking: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge having a tracksuit top along with a pierced ear thrown set for good measure. You could dub it a hot mess males, but the one thing you would never think of it is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore towards the teen awards, is integral for the rise in rise in popularity of denim as well as jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the level of look that creates parents eyeroll and say: “You bought that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, then it has legs. Elsewhere about the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent herringbone trousers which had been roughly cut off in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a sort of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing taking place; up close, the holes over these knits are layered more than a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a kind of anti-luxury luxury – is there in all the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy certainly is the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a good reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, probably the most in-demand photographers popular, these pictures have a typical masculine rawness. Within a short video to accompany this shoot, you may also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories to the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile is it Man?, as the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The latter sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a few days worth of facial hair.
Haute scruff was also throughout one of the more talked-about moments from the spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been kept in a Chinese restaurant variously known as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just rolled out of bed. Many of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, like in the parcel delivery service); even show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a turn on the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots as well as a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence popular is just set to keep: following the show, among Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, ended up being to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is yet another in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label has been maintained by Comme des Garçons. His clothes feel as if a nerdy undertake Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, yet not.
The truth is, if all else fails, the key to this look can be a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for men. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for ladies (see British Vogue’s December issue, where several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. How come this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, since it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpkyy16 is now the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the exact opposite of all justin bieber t shirt which has been the headline news in menswear over the past few years. And finally, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t seem like you’ve made an endeavor but suggests that you know what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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